This western US canyon is deeper than the Grand Canyon and spans 2 states — and it has fewer crowds and stunning river views

Main point

• Hells Canyon reaches its deepest point at about 8,000 feet, 2,000 feet deeper than the Grand Canyon.

• With fewer tourists, incredible wildlife viewing, and strong currents for rafting, early summer is the best time to visit Hells Canyon.

• To get the most out of your journey to Hells Canyon, book a tour with a local rafting tour or tour company.

To get a clear picture of Hells Canyon National Recreation Area, we need to look at it by the numbers. First, it is located in two states: Oregon and Idaho. The entire area covers 652,488 acres and the namesake canyon, Hells Canyon, is the deepest river canyon in North America. Formed by the Snake River, Hells Canyon is about 8,000 feet tall in some places, drawing comparisons to the most iconic canyon in the United States, the Grand Canyon, which is a natural canyon. Hells Canyon is not only about 2,000 feet deeper than the Colorado River-sculpted Grand Canyon, but it’s also more remote and less accessible (though the journey is well worth it).

“The Grand Canyon has been famous for decades because it got more media attention before people knew much about Hells Canyon,” said Peter Grubb, founder and president of Row Adventures, an Idaho-based company that operates rafting and hiking trips through Hells Canyon. “Less people raft in Hells Canyon each year than the Grand Canyon—permits are tightly controlled by the U.S. Forest Service—[and] hiking infrastructure is generally less developed and underused in the Grand Canyon.” He also added that Hells Canyon is “not like a walled canyon,” meaning you can see “more stars and get a sense of scale and depth than much of the Grand Canyon.”

However, like the Grand Canyon, Hells Canyon has a deep connection to the indigenous peoples who have long called the area home. “The most spectacular thing about by Saqán (Hell Canyon) is that it is located within the homeland of the Nimiipuu (Nez Perce), who continued to have a relationship with the land and water for over 16,500 years,” said Stacia Morfin (k’uusn’im qicxnew’eet or “Water Care”), CEO of Nez Perce Tourism. She added that Hells Canyon is “a place of deep cultural, historical and spiritual significance.”

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.

what to do

There are three main ways to see Hells Canyon: rafting, jet boat tours, and hiking. “Rafting trips range from three to six days, and five days are the perfect amount of time to explore the many special places the canyon has to offer, including riverside hikes, Native rock art, pioneer homes, [and] natural wonder,” Grubb said.

While you can embark on a self-guided trip along the river, you’ll need proficient canyoning skills—and a permit. “Canyon permits are issued by the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area,” he explained. “Those who book a trip with an outfitter need not worry, as the outfitter will handle all permits.”

Several companies offer jet boat tours through Hells Canyon. However, these often day-long excursions offer “a glimpse of the canyon,” according to Grubb. However, if you are interested in a jet boat experience that gives you a deeper understanding of Hells Canyon, you can book a Saqánpa Hells Canyon Jet Boat Tour with Nez Perce Tourism.

Ciarra Greene (Sapóoq’is Wiit’as or “Thing That Causes Survival”), the company’s chief executive officer. “Knowing that Nimiipuu culture is tied to advanced ecological knowledge and social structures, not only in the past but continuing to this day, is an experience unavailable anywhere else in the world.”

The Hells Canyon area also has many hiking trails, and Grubb notes that hikers should plan trips between May and early June, “before the summer heat arrives.” One of the most ancient and remarkable things to see in Hells Canyon can be reached by boat or on foot.

“Visiting the 6,000-year-old petroglyphs at Buffalo Eddy is an experience we recommend not only once in a lifetime, but also as a relationship-building place for reflection and visualization,” Greene said. “Many of the guests with whom we share this experience are able to see themselves, feel connected to something beyond themselves, and leave with an appreciation for their life’s journey.”

You can reach the Buffalo Eddy petroglyphs with a short hike near the small city of Asotin, Washington (Hells Canyon is located mainly in Oregon and Idaho, but the surrounding national recreation area has a small portion in Washington). The petroglyphs on the Idaho side can only be reached by boat. But whatever you’re doing, whether hiking, canoeing or rafting, keep an eye out for local wildlife.

“Wildlife in Saqánpa (Hells Canyon) is a relative of the Nimiipuu lifestyle. Visitors can encounter bighorn sheep, elk, deer, black bears, eagles, hawks and river species such as salmon, steelhead, bass and sturgeon,” Morfin said. “During our time on the river, we noticed that mid-afternoon is when the bighorn sheep revealed themselves to us. We ask visitors to approach these moments with respect, observe from a distance, and understand that you are entering a living system where all sentient beings have a role and responsibility.”

Before or after your rafting, canoeing or hiking adventure in Hells Canyon, be sure to spend a day in Lewiston, Idaho, the recreation area’s main northern gateway. “One of the most important places to begin the journey into Saqánpa (Hell’s Canyon) is at my simwhere the waters converge, now known as Lewiston, Idaho,” Morfin said. “Simíinekem, where the Clearwater River and the Snake River meet, is the natural gathering point of the Nimiipuu. It’s always a place of movement and connection.”

Best time to visit

Your exact experience in Hells Canyon will depend on the weather and season, so plan accordingly. “May, June and September are the best months for the combination of good flows, fewer people and more wildlife,” Grubb said. “The fruit trees planted by the homeowner are bearing fruit, bringing black bears closer to the riverbank to eat cherries, apricots, plums as well as berries. Because it is not too hot, other animals are still closer to the riverbank than in late summer.”

As summer gets into full swing, Greene shares that “warmer waters attract recreationists from around the world, seeking adventure, wildlife, fishing and culture” and peak season for jet boat tours and rafting trips begins. “Guiding visitors to Saqánpa in the summer allowed us to facilitate a story [that] The canyon walls and ripples in the water lend themselves to opportunities for real personal connection with our homeland,” she said.

Come September, expect colder weather but sunny days and fewer visitors. “As our tourist season winds down, the orange and red colors of the canyon stretch across the still waters; a truly remarkable sight to see as the canyon begins to transition back to its resting phase,” Greene said.

How to get there

Unlike major tourist attractions, Hells Canyon is not a place you can (or should) visit without proper planning. “Cambridge, Idaho is the best place to enter the river from the south, while Lewiston, Idaho is the best access point from the north,” Grubb said. If you choose the latter option—one of the more popular and the gateway town for many boat tours around the canyon—your best bet is to fly into Washington’s Spokane International Airport (GEG). From there, it’s about a two-hour drive to Lewiston, Idaho. Alternatively, you can fly into Lewiston-Nez Perce County Regional Airport (LWS), although your flight options may be limited.

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